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Popular shapes
This page lays out some of the most popular shapes, for diamonds and for other gemstones. Although the shape of the diamond is commonly referred to as the cut, the two are not in fact equivalent. The cut is the way the facets are cut to reflect more light, while the shape is the actual outline shape of the crystal. A ‘diamond cut’ really combines the two, with, for example, the emerald cut and princess cut both having a square outline, but having their surfaces faceted in different ways. Advanced cutting technology ensures that innovative new diamond shapes are continually being generated. View all Diamond Jewellery at Astley Clarke.
Round
This is by far the most popular diamond shape and also the most optically brilliant, because of its 360-degree symmetry. The ‘ideal’ round brilliant cut was calculated by gem enthusiast and mathematician Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919, to reflect and scatter the maximum amount of light. The round silhouette works with almost every mounting, from classic solitaires to the most avant-garde designs. Round diamonds can be set in prongs, in which they are visible from all sides, or into bezel mountings. In general, well cut round diamonds should be set with the least possible amount of metal around the stone, so that it is held securely but can still have light entering it to show off its sparkle and brilliance.
Princess
This has become particularly popular over the last few years – developed in 1970, the Princess is now second only to the round in popularity. The stone is in a square shape, with the same triangular facets sported by Tolkowsky’s brilliant round cut. This gives a classic shape and beautiful sparkle. This is the perfect choice for a combination between a square or rectangular outline with the brilliance of a round cut. Although a square outline is largely preferred, some stones are cut in a slightly more rectangular shape. The princess cut works excellently as a solitaire, but is also particularly attractive paired with side stones such as trillions or smaller princess-cut diamonds.
Asscher
This was developed in 1902 by the venerable Asscher brothers in Holland, as a variation on a classic emerald cut. Increasingly, celebrities have been seen with stones in an Asscher cut and this has considerably increased its popularity. This shape is defined by the way all the facets on the pavilion step-cut down towards the culet, or point on the bottom. The stone is usually cut to a square outline as opposed to rectangular. This is beautiful in a simple solitaire or in a setting that has clean geometric lines or side stones such as baguettes.
Marquise
This is an elongated shape with tapering points at both ends. Its shape successfully flatters the finger, making it appear longer, so is a popular cut for gemstones in designer jewellery. It is important to consider the length-to-width ratio to maximize the beauty of this cut: usually a ratio of 2:1 is preferred, so that the length of the stone is about twice the width of the diamond. This works equally well in a simple solitaire setting or with side stones, particularly baguette or trillion shapes. A marquise-cut diamond is traditionally mounted with six prongs: four positioned on the sides to hold the body of the stone securely and two V-shaped prongs to protect the points at either end.
Emerald
This is considered among the most classic of diamond shapes. It is always cut with blocked corners, usually to a rectangular outline, although some are cut to be more square. Because of its simpler faceting, larger inclusions tend to be more visible to the naked eye, so diamonds cut in this shape need to be of a higher clarity. Diamond ‘purists’ love the emerald cut for its simplicity.
Radiant
This cut is a stunning combination of the classic emerald shape and the sparkle of the round brilliant. This is thus quite similar to the princess cut, but usually (though not always) has a more rectangular outline, and the blocked corners of the emerald shape. It is cut with the combination of the step-cutting towards the culet that the princess and emerald cuts display, and some of the triangular faceting of the brilliant cut. This is extremely effective as a solitaire but also works well in combination with other stones, particularly cut into baguettes, trillions and princesses. Usually, a radiant-cut stone is set with special prongs to ensure that the blocked corners are securely held.
Cushion
This is an unusual shape and a popular alternative to an oval- or princess-cut diamond. The antique cushion cut is a combination of round and square outline, in a softened square or ‘cushion’ shape. The modern cushion cut is based on this, but can be either squarer or more elongated depending on preference and also have other minor variations. A cushion-cut diamond must have at least four secure prongs to ensure its security.
Pear
This feminine diamond shape, with one rounded end and a tapering point at the other, is a classic and extremely popular. It works beautifully as the centre stone in a ring, or in a pendant or a pair of drop earrings. A ratio of 1.5:1.0 is common, so that the length of the stone is about 1 ½ times the width of the stone. The symmetry of a pear cut diamond is vital, as this ensures the light is evenly reflected, particularly in the point. This cut is usually mounted with five prongs – two to hold the rounded end, two to hold the curved sides of the stone and one special V-shaped prong to hold the point at the end, the most vulnerable part of the stone, securely.
Oval
This cut makes the most use of the sparkle of a round-brilliant cut, and combines this with an elongated outline which is particularly flattering on the hand. Generally this is cut so that the length is twice the width, but this depends, of course, on personal preference. The oval shape is very versatile, and works well in almost any setting.
Heart
The complexity of this shape requires a particularly skilled cutter, to ensure proper brilliance. Since the outline needs to have a pleasing, obvious hear outline, symmetry is vital to this shape – the lobes must be rounded (not pointed, as they can be when the cutting is poorly executed) and clearly defined.
Trillion
This was developed in the 1970s as a variation of the radiant, combining step-cutting and brilliant faceting. It is a particularly dramatic cut, but is usually used for side stones rather than for the center stone and is somewhat scarce in larger sizes. The trillion requires a special setting with v-shaped prongs to protect the corners of the diamond.
Baguette
This shape, named after the long French loaf, is a small and rectangular with only a few steps. Baguettes most closely resemble an emerald cut on a much smaller scale. They come in both straight and tapered shapes and make attractive accent stones.
View all Diamond Jewellery at Astley Clarke.
Round
This is by far the most popular diamond shape and also the most optically brilliant, because of its 360-degree symmetry. The ‘ideal’ round brilliant cut was calculated by gem enthusiast and mathematician Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919, to reflect and scatter the maximum amount of light. The round silhouette works with almost every mounting, from classic solitaires to the most avant-garde designs. Round diamonds can be set in prongs, in which they are visible from all sides, or into bezel mountings. In general, well cut round diamonds should be set with the least possible amount of metal around the stone, so that it is held securely but can still have light entering it to show off its sparkle and brilliance.
Princess
This has become particularly popular over the last few years – developed in 1970, the Princess is now second only to the round in popularity. The stone is in a square shape, with the same triangular facets sported by Tolkowsky’s brilliant round cut. This gives a classic shape and beautiful sparkle. This is the perfect choice for a combination between a square or rectangular outline with the brilliance of a round cut. Although a square outline is largely preferred, some stones are cut in a slightly more rectangular shape. The princess cut works excellently as a solitaire, but is also particularly attractive paired with side stones such as trillions or smaller princess-cut diamonds.
Asscher
This was developed in 1902 by the venerable Asscher brothers in Holland, as a variation on a classic emerald cut. Increasingly, celebrities have been seen with stones in an Asscher cut and this has considerably increased its popularity. This shape is defined by the way all the facets on the pavilion step-cut down towards the culet, or point on the bottom. The stone is usually cut to a square outline as opposed to rectangular. This is beautiful in a simple solitaire or in a setting that has clean geometric lines or side stones such as baguettes.
Marquise
This is an elongated shape with tapering points at both ends. Its shape successfully flatters the finger, making it appear longer, so is a popular cut for gemstones in designer jewellery. It is important to consider the length-to-width ratio to maximize the beauty of this cut: usually a ratio of 2:1 is preferred, so that the length of the stone is about twice the width of the diamond. This works equally well in a simple solitaire setting or with side stones, particularly baguette or trillion shapes. A marquise-cut diamond is traditionally mounted with six prongs: four positioned on the sides to hold the body of the stone securely and two V-shaped prongs to protect the points at either end.
Emerald
This is considered among the most classic of diamond shapes. It is always cut with blocked corners, usually to a rectangular outline, although some are cut to be more square. Because of its simpler faceting, larger inclusions tend to be more visible to the naked eye, so diamonds cut in this shape need to be of a higher clarity. Diamond ‘purists’ love the emerald cut for its simplicity.
Radiant
This cut is a stunning combination of the classic emerald shape and the sparkle of the round brilliant. This is thus quite similar to the princess cut, but usually (though not always) has a more rectangular outline, and the blocked corners of the emerald shape. It is cut with the combination of the step-cutting towards the culet that the princess and emerald cuts display, and some of the triangular faceting of the brilliant cut. This is extremely effective as a solitaire but also works well in combination with other stones, particularly cut into baguettes, trillions and princesses. Usually, a radiant-cut stone is set with special prongs to ensure that the blocked corners are securely held.
Cushion
This is an unusual shape and a popular alternative to an oval- or princess-cut diamond. The antique cushion cut is a combination of round and square outline, in a softened square or ‘cushion’ shape. The modern cushion cut is based on this, but can be either squarer or more elongated depending on preference and also have other minor variations. A cushion-cut diamond must have at least four secure prongs to ensure its security.
Pear
This feminine diamond shape, with one rounded end and a tapering point at the other, is a classic and extremely popular. It works beautifully as the centre stone in a ring, or in a pendant or a pair of drop earrings. A ratio of 1.5:1.0 is common, so that the length of the stone is about 1 ½ times the width of the stone. The symmetry of a pear cut diamond is vital, as this ensures the light is evenly reflected, particularly in the point. This cut is usually mounted with five prongs – two to hold the rounded end, two to hold the curved sides of the stone and one special V-shaped prong to hold the point at the end, the most vulnerable part of the stone, securely.
Oval
This cut makes the most use of the sparkle of a round-brilliant cut, and combines this with an elongated outline which is particularly flattering on the hand. Generally this is cut so that the length is twice the width, but this depends, of course, on personal preference. The oval shape is very versatile, and works well in almost any setting.
Heart
The complexity of this shape requires a particularly skilled cutter, to ensure proper brilliance. Since the outline needs to have a pleasing, obvious hear outline, symmetry is vital to this shape – the lobes must be rounded (not pointed, as they can be when the cutting is poorly executed) and clearly defined.
Trillion
This was developed in the 1970s as a variation of the radiant, combining step-cutting and brilliant faceting. It is a particularly dramatic cut, but is usually used for side stones rather than for the center stone and is somewhat scarce in larger sizes. The trillion requires a special setting with v-shaped prongs to protect the corners of the diamond.
Baguette
This shape, named after the long French loaf, is a small and rectangular with only a few steps. Baguettes most closely resemble an emerald cut on a much smaller scale. They come in both straight and tapered shapes and make attractive accent stones.
View all Diamond Jewellery at Astley Clarke.
